Mirin’s Quiet Comeback

Mirin is the sweet rice seasoning behind the gloss on teriyaki, the depth in simmered fish and the balance in noodle broth. For decades it was overshadowed abroad by soy sauce and miso, and much of what is sold as mirin outside Japan is a sweetened substitute. Now chefs and specialist importers are turning to traditionally brewed hon mirin, and a small group of Japanese makers is finding new buyers overseas.

What mirin actually is

Real mirin, called hon mirin, is made from three ingredients: steamed glutinous rice, rice koji and a distilled spirit, usually shochu or brewing alcohol. The koji’s enzymes break the rice starch into sugars and the proteins into amino acids while the mash rests, typically for one to two months. Traditional producers then age the pressed liquid for a year or longer. The result is an amber liquid with about 14% alcohol and a sweetness that comes entirely from the rice.

That sweetness is different from table sugar. Mirin contains glucose together with several other sugars, as well as amino acids and organic acids. Cooks value it for practical reasons:

• Gloss — the sugars give grilled and simmered dishes the shine known in Japanese as teri, as in teriyaki
• Milder sweetness — it rounds off salty soy sauce without tasting sugary
• Odour control — the alcohol carries away fishy and meaty smells as it evaporates
• Texture — it helps simmered vegetables and fish keep their shape

From festive drink to kitchen staple

Mirin began as a drink. Records from the late sixteenth century describe it as a sweet liquor, and it was enjoyed that way through much of the Edo period. As soy sauce production expanded around Edo, cooks started combining the two, and the pairing became the base for eel glaze, soba dipping sauce and simmered dishes. Mirin is still drunk once a year in many households as the base of otoso, the spiced New Year’s toast.

Two regions became known for it. Mikawa, in present-day Aichi Prefecture, built a brewing cluster around the port town of Hekinan. Nagareyama, in Chiba Prefecture, supplied Edo by river and gave rise to the Manjo brand, which is now part of the Kikkoman group.

Three products, one name

Because hon mirin is legally an alcoholic beverage in Japan, it is subject to liquor tax. That led manufacturers to develop cheaper alternatives, and these dominate many overseas shelves.

Buyers can tell them apart by the ingredient list. A short list of rice, koji and alcohol indicates hon mirin. Corn syrup or glucose syrup near the top indicates a mirin-style product.

The makers to know

• Takara Shuzo — the Kyoto-based group is one of Japan’s largest mirin producers and sells through its international food distribution network
• Kikkoman (Manjo) — carries the Nagareyama tradition and benefits from Kikkoman’s global soy sauce distribution
• Mizkan — the Aichi vinegar maker also sells mirin and mirin-style seasonings in Japan and abroad
• Kokonoe Mirin — a Hekinan brewer founded in 1772, among the oldest specialist mirin makers still operating
• Sumiya Bunjiro Brewery — maker of Sanshu Mikawa Mirin, produced with domestic rice and long ageing, and a favourite of natural-food importers
• Hakusen Shuzo — a Gifu brewer known for Fukuraijun, a hon mirin aged for three years

Why chefs are paying attention now

Three trends are working in mirin’s favour. Japanese restaurants abroad keep multiplying, and their kitchens need authentic seasonings. Interest in fermentation has made koji a familiar word among Western chefs, and mirin is one of the most approachable koji products. Finally, pastry chefs and bartenders are using aged mirin as a complex sweetener in caramel, ice cream and cocktails, well beyond Japanese cuisine.

The wider export picture helps. Japan’s agricultural, forestry, fishery and food exports reached a record of about 1.5 trillion yen in 2024, and the government has set a target of 5 trillion yen by 2030. Seasonings are among the categories that travel well, since they are shelf-stable and used repeatedly.

What overseas partners should consider

• Alcohol regulation — hon mirin may be treated as an alcoholic product at import and retail, depending on the market. Check licensing and labelling rules before ordering
• Education sells — most consumers do not know that mirin types differ. Importers who explain the difference can justify a premium price
• Small producers, limited volume — long-aged mirin is made in small batches, so supply agreements need lead time
• Adjacent uses — foodservice, craft food manufacturing and the bar trade are all realistic channels alongside retail

Outlook

Mirin is unlikely to become as universal as soy sauce, but it does not need to. Its opportunity lies with cooks who already use Japanese ingredients and want better ones. For importers and distributors, traditionally brewed hon mirin offers a product with a clear story, a visible quality gap against substitutes and a growing base of professional users.